E-Odin 2.0 und Fardriver ND72530

[bob2.0]

The problem with this type of battery is that nobody here can tell you how much current the bms can provide continuously.
The genuine controller inside the e-odin 2.0 is limited to 120A line current (330A phase current).

If you can't increase line & phase current, the benefit will be very limited.
Of course, you can fix the current-gauge problem in the display... which shows erratic currents with the genuine controller.

I am about to order a ND72530 (as we discussed in another thread). I worry about complications I might suffer.

On this point, about putting stress on the battery, would getting the ND72360 (which is cheaper) mean that this risk is avoided? So I could plug in and just see if it works out of the box? Or is the ND72530 always better, but has to set to limit current?

Do you think a controller with higher voltage might make better sense to avoid repeat failure? I am wondering if there may be voltage spikes if you hit a bump at high speed? I have spent a lot of time at high speed on the bike.

Thanks. Happy Silvester!

[bob2.0]

ND72530 ordered. There is experience here in installing it, so it'd be wise to stick with what is known to work.

Happy 2025, you are an hour ahead of us here in UK. I hope it's a safe and fast year.

[jeff-jordan]

'25 shall thrive, as Jools mentioned at his Hootenanny .

[bob2.0]

Let's hope so. At least the UK Customs will thrive by collecting money off me!

The vendor did not charge the VAT, so I will be liable for that, and the handling charge, like you were. But the messages say it is on its way.

Am I likely to get a 'Chinese fake' Fardriver controller, or are the Fardriver controllers already Chinese copies of something else? Does this look 'real' -

I will reconnect the original controller and then test it with the lead, and try to download the variables in it so I can set the new one up exactly the same (to start with). Wish me well, I might be back for advice. Any tips to do it best would be welcome.

[MEroller]

Fardriver IS a Chinese Company

[bob2.0]

Fardriver IS a Chinese Company

I was trying to figure out if the Chinese are now copying the Chinese?

A lot of Chinese companies have now figured out how to make quality products, but other companies might try to imitate those better products without doing the job well.

[bob2.0]

I have the 'Juliet' connector on the original controller. I have the USB connection cable. I have software on the PC.

How do I enable the PC to talk with the connection cable?

Will it then talk with the controller?

All I see is 'FT232R UART' appear in the hardware, does not appear to be a 'COM' to connect to?

Update, OK, I found a driver and it is now on COM8.

I can select COM8 in the software and it seems to be happy. Not yet plugged the other end into the bike.

[jeff-jordan]

To check whether the communication between computer and controller works as it should, you can connect the computer and the bike and start a simple terminal program, like hterm.
Set the communication parameters to 19200 baud, 8 bit data, 1 stop-bit and no parity.
As described here.

Then "manually" send the following hex sequence to the controller: AA 13 EC 07 5F 5F 6E 91
The controller then should send about 300 sixteen byte long data packets to the computer, which you can see as incoming data at the terminal program.

If this works, you can go on with the motorc.exe program.
If it doesn't, it's most likely that you need to swap tx and rx at the USB-TTL converter.

Anyway, this motorc.exe program is really awkward. I was able to connect with my bike and read out the settings.... but I didn't manage to change any settings this way. Later on, with the bluetooth-module and the fardriver app, it was easy to change the settings (the controller always "beeps" as acknowledgement when settings are stored).

Btw.: you need to set the USB-TTL adapter to 3.3V logic level, otherwise you might damage the input port of the controller.

[bob2.0]

To check whether the communication between computer and controller works as it should, you can connect the computer and the bike and start a simple terminal program, like hterm.
Set the communication parameters to 19200 baud, 8 bit data, 1 stop-bit and no parity.
As described here.

Then "manually" send the following hex sequence to the controller: AA 13 EC 07 5F 5F 6E 91
The controller then should send about 300 sixteen byte long data packets to the computer, which you can see as incoming data at the terminal program.

If this works, you can go on with the motorc.exe program.
If it doesn't, it's most likely that you need to swap tx and rx at the USB-TTL converter.

Anyway, this motorc.exe program is really awkward. I was able to connect with my bike and read out the settings.... but I didn't manage to change any settings this way. Later on, with the bluetooth-module and the fardriver app, it was easy to change the settings (the controller always "beeps" as acknowledgement when settings are stored).

Btw.: you need to set the USB-TTL adapter to 3.3V logic level, otherwise you might damage the input port of the controller.

Thanks.

oh boy! I don't like this stuff.

The controller that is coming will have a bluetooth module. Is it best I stick with that?

I really didn't want to disconnect everything though, it's neatly installed and I was hoping not to have to swap the 30 pin connector.

Is it the advice that I should make that effort?

The previous owner had connected and activated regen, though.

[jeff-jordan]

...
The controller that is coming will have a bluetooth module. Is it best I stick with that?
...

My advice is to wait for the new controller and it's bluetooth module.
No need to mess around with it now (except when you are curious and there's nothing else for you to do ), especially with the awkward motorc.exe stuff.

Install the controller with the existing cable harness (no need to use the 30pin connector with harness that comes with the controller).

Now, as you've already discovered, the E-Odin has this tiny female 4pin julet connector for the communication with either a bluetooth-module or computer (preferably notebook).

But the bluetooth module will come with a different 4pin connector (female, 2,8mm pin, commonly used for automotive stuff, as you can find in such a box).

So there are two more or less elegant possiblities:

1. (prefered option) keep the original julet connector (female) and build yourself a short adapter (using a male 4 pin julet connector and a 4 pin male 2,8mm automotive connector).
2. cut off the female 4 pin julet connector from the E-Odin and replace it with a 4 pin male automotive connector.

You can find the required pinout description here.

If you don't dare to build yourself such an adapter, just send me a pn.

Later, when the bluetooth connection is working, you can use a smartphone and the fardriver app to configure the controller with the required settings.