E-ODIN - Diskussionsthread

[jeff-jordan]

Gibt's da kein Backup? Da hatten sich schon einige Informationen/Postings angesammelt. Insbesondere zuletzt die Bemühungen von bob2.0 zur Umrüstung bzw. Modifikation seiner E-Odin auf alternative Stoßdämpfer (von einem anderen Bike).

[bob2.0]

I can make that information again, no problem. The job is not yet complete, but looking like it will work, and of course if it does not work then it is not good information!

I have to decide whether to modify the strut boss slightly, or try another axle bolt. This decision is pending.

For the rear, mine has already been replaced by the previous owner for the YSS 265mm shock as that deleted thread mentions. I think that was largely the conclusion of 10 pages.

I think the actual original rear shock is a 260mm eye to eye (?), but I am not sure as I don't have it! I assume this because of my headlight aim was made low.

I think any rear shock will work that is 10mm eye ends and 260~265mm long. I would guess the quality of the ride is then down to the quality of the shock.

[bob2.0]

Tyre runout; Can I ask what your thoughts might be on this, because I have seen it mentioned in other places?

My rear tyre has also been replaced by previous owner. I was told the original was out of shape, but perhaps there was run-out from imprecise fitting?

I think this because this new tyre also has run out. It is maybe 3~4mm of runout.

I guess it is related to a slightly improper bead seat.

It runs fine as it is, I am not concerned, but do you think it is worth deflating the tyre and rolling it back and forwards to reseat it, and re-inflate it? Is that good, or just risking worse?

[MEroller]

I can make that information again, no problem.

Please check this thread for any news about regaining the lost information. Was that all in THIS thread, or where had you placed them?

[bob2.0]

yes it was that thread

[bob2.0]

Does anyone notice a wheel-wobble at 70kph to 80kph, in that range?

This seems like classic castor shimmy, the result of the tyre (still has the original cheap one).

I thought it might be rear wheel affecting the handling, there was a little wobbling in it at that speed, but I tuned its balance up yesterday near perfectly with trial and error. So I don't believe it is the back wheel having an effect.

[Zimmermännche]

Does anyone notice a wheel-wobble at 70kph to 80kph, in that range?

This seems like classic castor shimmy, the result of the tyre (still has the original cheap one).

I thought it might be rear wheel affecting the handling, there was a little wobbling in it at that speed, but I tuned its balance up yesterday near perfectly with trial and error. So I don't believe it is the back wheel having an effect.

Generell gibt es Probleme der Unwucht mit dem Hinterrad, durch den Radnabenmotor, dieser lässt sich nicht wie ein normales Rad auswuchten, egal mit welchem Reifen (billig oder teuer). Wenn du die Odin auf den Hauptständer stellst und "Gas" gibst ist das ganz gut zu sehen, dadurch wackelt und vibriert das ganze Hinterteil in der Luft.
Du kannst versuchen dies mit Wuchtgewichten im eingebauten Zustand zu minimieren. ( Wuchtgewichten mit Klebeband provisorisch ankleben und schauen ob die Vibration und das wackeln weniger wird, an verschiedenen Stellen mit verschiedenen Gewichtmenge testen)
Gibt auch ne Vibrationmessungsapp fürs Smartphone wenn du es im Handyhalter am Lenker befestigt kannst du damit auch vergleichen.
Ist hier im Forum auch alles schon genauer beschrieben worden.
Manche hier haben aber auch professionellere Methoden mit extra Messgeräten usw.

[bob2.0]

Does anyone notice a wheel-wobble at 70kph to 80kph, in that range?

This seems like classic castor shimmy, the result of the tyre (still has the original cheap one).

I thought it might be rear wheel affecting the handling, there was a little wobbling in it at that speed, but I tuned its balance up yesterday near perfectly with trial and error. So I don't believe it is the back wheel having an effect.

Generell gibt es Probleme der Unwucht mit dem Hinterrad, durch den Radnabenmotor, dieser lässt sich nicht wie ein normales Rad auswuchten, egal mit welchem Reifen (billig oder teuer). Wenn du die Odin auf den Hauptständer stellst und "Gas" gibst ist das ganz gut zu sehen, dadurch wackelt und vibriert das ganze Hinterteil in der Luft.
Du kannst versuchen dies mit Wuchtgewichten im eingebauten Zustand zu minimieren. ( Wuchtgewichten mit Klebeband provisorisch ankleben und schauen ob die Vibration und das wackeln weniger wird, an verschiedenen Stellen mit verschiedenen Gewichtmenge testen)
Gibt auch ne Vibrationmessungsapp fürs Smartphone wenn du es im Handyhalter am Lenker befestigt kannst du damit auch vergleichen.
Ist hier im Forum auch alles schon genauer beschrieben worden.
Manche hier haben aber auch professionellere Methoden mit extra Messgeräten usw.

My rear wheel is balanced near perfectly. I put the rear wheel up and ran it, and added weights by trial and error (with some added intelligence!) and it is virtually perfect.

This is a wobble/weave fluttering on the front geometry/tyre.

It's this I am asking about; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzI-fUzfgeo

On this bike, in severity, it is somewhere between that video and this one; https://youtu.be/O88djeVP4Bk?t=7. Not as bad as this video, but worse than the first one.

All bikes do it, it is in the design of the suspension and the tyre how well it is damped so you don't notice it.

It appears at a very typical speed for this sort of behaviour on motorcycles. It is the tyre and suspension, I was just curious if others have noticed it, or long got rid of the original front tyre?

[bob2.0]

Charging the battery through the standard connector.

Has anyone tried charging at higher than 10A through the existing port, with a different charger?

Is it a bad idea to go to, say, 12A or 15A?

I am just curious. I might buy another charger, and the options with 10A or 15A with variable set current, not a big price difference.

[Zimmermännche]

Charging the battery through the standard connector.

Has anyone tried charging at higher than 10A through the existing port, with a different charger?

Is it a bad idea to go to, say, 12A or 15A?

I am just curious. I might buy another charger, and the options with 10A or 15A with variable set current, not a big price difference.

Soweit ich weiß wurde die Odin 2.0 von verschiedenen Anbietern mit verschiedenen Ladegeräten verkauft und über den gleichen Ladeanschluss betrieben, mit 10 Ampere, 25 Ampere und sogar 40 Ampere.
Von dem Verkauf mit 40 Ampere sind sie aber wegen der Akkulebensdauer wieder weggegangen.