E-ODIN - Diskussionsthread

[faddl92]

KOMPATIBILITÄT

Dieser Aluminium Hub Motor mit diesen E Motorradern kompatibel:

- Dayi E Odin 2.0

- E Odin 2.0 Pro

- E Odin 3.0 Pro


Hier der Link:
https://madatshop.com/e-motorr%C3%A4der ... rsatzteile

Dann müssen sie ja eigentlich verschiedene Varianten haben oder besorgen können, da ja nicht jeder Controller und Motor zusammen funktioniert bei den 3 Odin Varianten.

Du kannst ja mal nachfragen, vielleicht erhälst du dann ja nützliche Informationen.

Bedeutet das, dass der "AMR" Motor, der bei der Odin 2.0 und 3.0 verbaut wird, der gleiche ist und sich nur der Inverter unterscheidet?...

PS: was soll eigentlich ein AMR Motor sein? ich arbeite mit E-Motoren, aber der Begriff ist mir neu

[dominik]

Ob die wirklich gleich sind wird sich erst raus stellen wenn mal jemand den 2.0 ubd den 3.0 Motor zerlegt.
AMR sagt mir auch nichts, aber fiese Motiren haben einen Encoder und die ohne aaMR Bezeichnung haben wohl Hall Sensoren zur Lageerkennung.

[bob2.0]

Google "fardriver wiring diagram", it is pretty easy to understand


near the seat lock there are 4 not connected wires (for turn signals on side bags)

Ah, thank you so much.

Yes I had deduced the 6 pin connector carried the indicators and plate light. But before the indicators were connected to the luggage wires.

So this confused me. I wondered if it was part of the alarm system why it was connected like that. Seems some previous owner just found it easier, I guess?

I also reused the luggage wires, but connected to the one line on the 6 pin connector for the side light. All works now, but not using the 6 pin at all.

I did that because I don't think a 6 pin plug will pass through the hole, so this way I will fit a tail tidy later, and use 'bullet connectors'.

The original 'stinger' has the predictable damage, with broken indicator holder and other things. I put a new wire in it for now to make it all work well.

In regards the wiring, what I wanted to understand was the wire colours and where they went. Just, a usual wiring diagram. For those who built their own out of a box, did the wiring diagram come with it?

[bob2.0]

Thanks, this confirms to me that it should not be a problem to buy a classic PC power cable (like the stock one that powers my stock 10A charger)....

Have you tried this, and could I ask this question?

My bike has the original 10A charger, the lead includes a red and black, but also a small yellow wire.

Is there some special message sent to the charger from the bike to make it work in a certain way?

I ask this question because I have ordered an 8A charger (a 72V, i.e. up to 84V) as an additional charger, but it is not anything special. Will this work OK, or does that yellow line carry an important message for the charger?

[jeff-jordan]

...
Is there some special message sent to the charger from the bike to make it work in a certain way?
...

There is no special "message" sent over the yellow line.

The yellow wire is just connected to GND (-) inside the charger and pulls the brake indicator line low when you plug it into the socket at the rear of the bike.
So you can't accidentally drive away while you're charging.

If you get a new standard 72V Li-Ion Charger (with max. 84V), you can use it instead or in addition to the genuine 10A charger.

[bob2.0]

The yellow wire is just connected to GND (-) inside the charger and pulls the brake indicator line low when you plug it into the socket at the rear of the bike.

Excellent. Thank you so much for that reply, very helpful.

That also makes sense as a safety feature, which I can replicate in the new unit.

I have ordered an 8A variant because it is smaller than the original and should fit in the false tank space as a backup when I go places.

About the false tank. I noticed there was a big space underneath the 'tool box' cavity when I was sorting the wiring out. I wondered why they did not make the 'tool box' bigger, but perhaps that space is there to allow cooling by the controller?

I would have liked them to make the tank bigger for more useful space, and to be comfortable to tuck down on to, for improved air flow. But that is another discussion. 'Suggestions for improvements'. Maybe there is a thread to make about good ideas from owners that Dayi might see and use (and we can upgrade our bikes with new components)?

[bob2.0]

Is there a thread on how the bars match up to battery voltage (and therefore percent)?

This is for 100Ah 2.0.

I am doing a range test from full and it's just flipped to the 5th bar (restoring to the 6th bar after stopping, so just at the boundary).

The battery voltage reads 71.8V, so almost exactly half way for the total range of battery. One might naively think this is perfect.

Is there a thread where someone has plotted the voltages and % at each bar transition, and when does the battery actually stop delivering power? (I have hit the "black-screen of nothingness" at 3 bars, too, on my last range test.)

[Miguello80]

About the false tank. I noticed there was a big space underneath the 'tool box' cavity when I was sorting the wiring out. I wondered why they did not make the 'tool box' bigger, but perhaps that space is there to allow cooling by the controller?

Under that plastic with blob inside the "gas" tank is a metal plate and controller is mounted on it from bottom side so this blob does not help with cooling the controller. Also controller heats up "only" up to 50 or 60°C so nothing to be worried about = nothing that would need additional cooling.
So you can cut it off and replace with some flat piece of plastic to make the bottom flat (without it there will be that metal plate but I am not sure whether there are would not be some free space on sides that would allow small things to fall inside the bike = on the top of battery).

I cut that blob off and put 40A charger inside the "gas" tank. My friend did it too. At first I was affraid how long will this very expensive charger last but it is more than year now and more than 5000 km and still works so ok. My friend rides lot more than me and his charger works still too.

[Miguello80]

The battery voltage reads 71.8V, so almost exactly half way for the total range of battery.

71.8 V or so does not mean exactly half of the battery or half of the range. Google the LiIon discharge curve and you will see that top and bottom voltage goes away faster than the middle part that lasts longer. This is why last three bars does not mean 30 % of range as they disappear very fast.

Jeff posted info about bars here - viewtopic.php?f=157&t=29218&p=255103&hilit=balken

[Miguello80]

Bedeutet das, dass der "AMR" Motor, der bei der Odin 2.0 und 3.0 verbaut wird, der gleiche ist und sich nur der Inverter unterscheidet?...

PS: was soll eigentlich ein AMR Motor sein? ich arbeite mit E-Motoren, aber der Begriff ist mir neu

Actual E-Odins have AMR motors, 6 or 10 kW.
Previous version had motor made by QS Motors.
AMR motor is not made by QS Motors, I asked them long time ago.
Nobody know anything about those "AMR" motors. Main difference is that those "AMR" motors use encoder instead of hall sensor in QS motor. Also controllers are encoder versions (I upgraded to 72680b where b means encoder version).