Nützliche Basteleien an und um die E-Odin herum...

[bob2.0]

Self amalgamating tape found. Phase wires wrapped better.

[bob2.0]

Also wrapped the cable to the instrument panel with the self amalgamating tape for better protection.

[bob2.0]

I saw that (back of instrument) when I was trying out a new screen, this is just a prototype using 1mm polycarbonate I cut out for sizing, it will need to be thicker. I am just going to size this up first, see if it works out in riding.

[bob2.0]

Scratchy-scratchy on the footpeg. Ouch!

I put two layers of heat shrink on the end of the spring, wrapped over each other, but the damage is already done there.

[bob2.0]

I added an extra cable tie around the phase cables, they are very close to the wheel, I can imagine the rusty clip giving up and all sorts of disaster. So this is just an extra line of safety there.

[bob2.0]

The right hand lock was going over too far and the stop was not engaging before the bars hit the 'tank'.

So I added a large (7.8mm) cable tie to create an extra engagement 'lump'.

It also makes the end lock softer doing this. I tried doing the same on the left, but it kept falling off for some reason, but that side seems OK and does reach the end stop on full lock, though the bars can still scrape the tank a bit.

[bob2.0]

I wanted to add a top box at low cost, so I attached a top box plate to the grab handles using pipe fixings.

This has worked well and it seems secure. I loaded with 10kg of books to test. It did not seem to vibrate or have any problems.

The bike rode much better too. It seems the suspension works better with a higher load at the back.

I had some concerns about whether I might damage the handles so I bought used handles off a BN125 (my son has this bike, and it looked like a similar size).

Here is a photo of the BN125 fitted, and the original.

So, this is an opinion if you need to replace the grab handles.

I had to grind off the corners to make it fit in the trim, and the holes are not quite the same spacing, these needed to be opened up.

But I did not use these handles for fitting this top box plate because the handles are made of plastic and less robust. It is a filled nylon I think. It is tough but I felt that I could now risk damaging the original, as I now have these as a replacement option. They will not mark in the same way as these are, which already have some elements of scratches and corrosion. The Benelli BN125 handles will never corrode.

[bob2.0]

More weather proofing.

The front fender is not good. It leaves mud spraying up, and I notice my stanchions are scratched (from mud being wiped off, I think).

So I added thin foam in this way.

The stanchions now look better protected from spray coming from the front. I will see how this performs.

[bob2.0]

I noticed there is an 8mm mounting hole on the bottom of the head stem.

it is rusty, and the lower head bearing is not well protected.

Is there meant to be a protective piece fitted there?

Is there one on yours?

Well, lets make on.

ac71ae7c-e8d4-45f7-89e5-813ddfcd114a.jpeg (108.2 KiB) 140 mal betrachtet

f1f1e489-82bb-4ce2-9d75-5581846b6958.jpeg (127.76 KiB) 140 mal betrachtet

I will get a nice fitting stainless screw in due course, this works for now. I will see how it works out, and maybe improve it later, and take the rust of the stem.

[Miguello80]

29030312-97f7-4892-a73f-6f32b50537dd (1).jpeg

Wow, forks appear to be VERY misaligned.
It could be just an wrong angle of photo but it hit me in the eye so just for record - space between them has to be same on top as on bottom, that is why there are spacers on front axle.