E-ODIN - Diskussionsthread

[jeff-jordan]

...
Lustig, ich habe mir letzte Woche auch die Bremsscheiben mit der Bezeichnung BRDF031 bestellt, über die Fruugo Seite.
Hab da vorher noch nicht bestellt, mal schauen wann die Teile kommen.

Ich denke mal, schlimmer als die original Bremsscheiben kann es ohnehin nicht kommen .

[bob2.0]

...
Lustig, ich habe mir letzte Woche auch die Bremsscheiben mit der Bezeichnung BRDF031 bestellt, über die Fruugo Seite.
Hab da vorher noch nicht bestellt, mal schauen wann die Teile kommen.

Ich denke mal, schlimmer als die original Bremsscheiben kann es ohnehin nicht kommen .

I started to look at this because the right (front) lever is not a smooth action. It sticks, which means sometimes the brakes come on too suddenly.

I thought it might be the calipers, so I looked at improvements. But I think it might also be the master cylinder.

So I think I will proceed with replacing the front calipers and discs with the single 260mm BN125 disc, see how that feels.

Maybe I will need to change the mastercylinder too.

[bob2.0]

I have a question about charging.

I topped the battery up and went out yesterday.

I have a long ride due and set the charger on a timer for cheaper electricity at night. But it did not run and charge.

So I have discovered that at 77.6V battery voltage (9 bars showing) the charger will not put charge in. I was worried that it was a bigger issue, so went for a ride, and brought it down to 75.6V and it charges OK again, now.

I suspect this is an issue of the charger, not the battery?

Is it meant to do this, do you know, and is this the bike or the charger not allowing the charge?

[jeff-jordan]

There is only the bms inside the battery, that surveys charge and discharge, but as long as the currents and voltages stay within the parameters (max. 150A, max. 84V) there is no action taken by it.
The E-Odin 2 has no extra device that can restrict the charging of the battery (not even a fuse in its original assembly).

So it might either be a problem of the charger, not starting when you first connect it to the bike (for a while) and then connect it to the mains.
Or the timer has a problem with its load (the charger, => check the power restrictions of the timer and be aware that the charger has a high initial current that usually heats up the thermistor).
Do you know whether the timer has an internal relay to switch the mains (do you hear a "click" when it switches), or is the mains switched by an SSR?

I started to look at this because the right (front) lever is not a smooth action. It sticks, which means sometimes the brakes come on too suddenly.
...

That looks as if one of the brake pistons is sticking.
If you've got the genuine calipers (the ones with the red "buttons"), there are two pistons in each of the calipers.
Sometimes one of them sticks.
But it could be fixed by thoroughly cleaning of all the parts. There are several youtube videos (here, or here) out there, explaining how.
I once had this problem too. But I simply went for a set of new front calipers (complete with new lever, braking fluid compartment and brake hoses).

[bob2.0]

Thanks.

I did take the calipers off and they seemed dirty/rusty.

I usually clean pistons on new (to me) bikes, but it must be some deep corrosion that a quick clean up (push pistons out with lever) won't reach.

The timer is just a mechanical mains plug-in, it is dumb.

So, I think it is all down to the charger itself.

I have bought an alternative, but not wired it up to a plug yet to try it. I want to install fuses in the charging leads, these are live, I can imagine all sorts of horrors if the charger itself short-circuits.

[Miguello80]

Just to let you know: I ordered the discs for the Lexmoto at cmpoparts.com and they arrived here today.
But to avoid false expectations: these discs are no floating discs!
In fact they are solid single piece steel discs, in floating disc design (which is absolutely ok for me and my E-Odin 2).

I should wrote "floating" like "sort of floating" instead of (floating). I did not have them in that moment so I did not know exactly how they are mady and how much movement is there to be real floating discs. Tomorrow I will test it more because I still believe that those bobbins / rivets allows outer part to move a little bit.
But it definitelly is NOT a single piece disc, bobbins connects outer part with inner part so two part connected together. Usually each part is made from a little bit different material and even then it is not, this design is used to stop transfering heat from outer part to inner part to lower the risk of warping.
If they will not warp like original discs, I am ok with them, price is good.

[Miguello80]

I have a long ride due and set the charger on a timer for cheaper electricity at night. But it did not run and charge.

I used a Tuya measuring socket with no problems.
Try charging without the timer and you will see, either it will charge so problem is the timer or not so problem is the charger. Then you can continue.

[Miguello80]

I did take the calipers off and they seemed dirty/rusty.
I usually clean pistons on new (to me) bikes, but it must be some deep corrosion that a quick clean up (push pistons out with lever) won't reach.

Design of calipers is very simple so easiest way to make them work is to take pistons all out and clean them + inner side of calipers.
Main work is on rubber seals that retracts pistons back.

Check them and be carefull when putting all back together, I am not sure whether it is a common diameter to be able to buy a replacement. Any youtube video should help.

[jeff-jordan]

...
But it definitelly is NOT a single piece disc, bobbins connects outer part with inner part so two part connected together. Usually each part is made from a little bit different material and even then it is not, this design is used to stop transfering heat from outer part to inner part to lower the risk of warping.

That's the idea behind the floating discs.
But I checked the whole disc with a magnet and it sticks all over the disc (with the same force), furthermore there is no gap between the black and the shiny part of it.
In my eyes the BRDF031 is one piece of steel, with a polished shiny outer ring and a black coated inner section! I can't see another functionality of the rivets, except for decoration.

See for yourself:

[bob2.0]

I went ahead and ordered a BN125 caliper to fit on the BN125 struts that I will attempt to swap out.

Now I have just realised these are CBS calipers, they have two unions and two bleed nipples.

This is good and bad. On one hand, a CBS system is better than a simple rear brake, but on the other it might be complicated if I have to also install the manifold and proportioning valve.

I was thinking just to connect the rear and front* directly from the left lever? Is there any reason I should not do this?

*The 2nd union connects to a small piston in the middle of the caliper, so would not apply the larger outer pistons.

Or simply not connect and blank off the smaller piston? Though the new EU regulations seem to like this sort of idea?